Windermere - Manchester 🇬🇧

Orrest Head 11kms 🚶‍♀️

After rain overnight, it started to clear this morning.  I dried out my tent draped over a fence while packing up and making brekky.  The campground kindly stored my bike and panniers for the day in their shed.

First stop to the Beatrix Potter Experience Museum.  An absolutely delightful time enjoying the immersive experience and remembering reading the books to my little sons and their delight and joy as we made the characters come alive.

I then set off to do the famous Orrest Head hike which was the first plotted hike in the Lakes District by Albert Wainwright who documented 214 fell hikes in the Lake District in his lifetime, and is honoured at the summit.  I followed the lake, bustling with tourists taking boat rides and up a long road past quaint shops, and houses made from local slate to the top road where the hike starts from.

It's a relatively cruisy hike following a winding path to the lookout with fabulous views of Lake Windermere.  Interestingly today there were airforce jets zooming over performing maneuvers for the DDay memorials.

I headed back down and as I met the road I spotted a woman who I thought I recognised from and Aussie/NZ cycle FB forum and so I called out her name and yes, it was Nicola.  I still had 5kms to go to collect my bike and then ride up the big hill to the railway station, and so she met me there for a half hour chat comparing Touring routes etc before I jumped onto the train to Manchester.

I cycled from the train station to my warm shower hosts who are kindly babysitting my bike while I fly to Cologne for some more training in the morning.  Cheap flights are often dodgy time of day and I need to be at the airport at 4.45am and so had dinner and a chat with them and now on the tram to the airport where I'll ‘sleep’ the night.

The Lakes District is so picturesque and I'd like to come back to do more hiking.

Windermere 25kms 🚴‍♀️🇬🇧

This morning I woke after a warm  night's sleep at Lucy's.  She kindly drove me to an outdoors shop and I bought a replacement rain jacket as mine was no longer waterproof.

We drove to Windermere and cycled a wonderful cruisy 25km loop around  the lake.  

The route included a ferry ride, a climb to Claife viewing station, gravel paths, forest, picnic by the lake, hills, Wrey castle, farm gates, the village of Ambleside, marina and lots of lake views.

We chatted and meandered and it was special to catch up on the other side of the world.  It was cold and breezy but only an occasional shower.  

I waved goodbye to Lucy and put my panniers on my bike and cycled the short distance to my campground.  I'm the only person in a tent tonight and lots of caravans and campervans and they are all the tucked away inside for warmth. 

After setting up I went for a lovely walk along the lake to get some groceries, came back and made dinner and now in my sleeping bag as the temp is dropping.

The Lakes District is such a picturesque part of England ❤️

Keswick to Grasmere 25kms 🚴‍♀️

Well that was a memorable ride today! The icy wind was whipping round the tent when i woke, with sheets of fine rain.. The forecast said it was going to get worse and so I waited for a break in the rain and then packed up. Said goodbye to camper Colin who wished me well on my journey.

As I cycled through Keswick the rain came down. The route followed a steep lane past the Castle Cragg stone circle and then turned to follow a pass. I had seen this gorgeous pass a couple of days earlier but today it was barely visible with the fog and rain.  

I came to the turnoff to the Thirlmere reservoir road and it had a road closed sign. I decided that this probably was a message for cars and I would be ok on a bike. The alternative was a very busy road and the fierce winds and sheeting rain made that option unappealing and so I tried my luck. My theory was right and I had a car free ride around the lake with steep rocky cliffs, waterfalls and lush ferns. The road went mainly down hill but due to the winds I couldn't go faster than 12-15kms per hour! It would be gorgeous on a blue sky day.  

A turn off to a steep cycle path which ran parallel to the main road for quite a while before spitting me out to ride on the main road with no shoulder in tough conditions.

I took the turn off to Grasmere and sheltered in a bus stop for about 10 mins and had a snack but I was shivering quite badly. I cycled down the hill with beautiful houses and cafes and decided to find somewhere to get some soup and try and warm up. The cafes were all right on the street with nowhere to park my bike.

I pulled into the Wordsworth Hotel as I could park my bike and it had a sign saying muddy boots welcome and hot soup avail. I walked in as a complete drowned rat and they were very kind, found me a table in the overflow dining area and I asked for a heater to be turned on.

They were fussing over me and I started to stop shivering. I thought it seemed like a nice place and so jumped onto the booking site to see how much to stay -320 pounds ($640!!) incl breakfast! Hostel bed 5kms away was $120.

I received a message from Lucy to see how my ride was going in the weather and offering a pickup if needed. I had 15kms to go and then set up my tent. I chose the lifeline and an hour later Lucy walked through the door to rescue me. I was huddled against the heater and she said I looked done in 😂

All sounds rather dramatic but this Qld girl struggled with the hills, 50km headwinds, driving rain and wind chill less than 5 degrees combo 🙄

As we drove to Lucy's place over the pass the weather started to improve and tonight we went for an 8km walk and the sky was clear but it's already down to 5 degrees. Summer in England 🙄🙄

Hoping to be able to continue my ride tomorrow!

Keswick 🇬🇧 8km 🚶‍♀️

 I awoke, opened my tent flap and enjoyed the uninterrupted views of Derwentwater 😊

I made my porridge gazing across the lake to the mountains beyond and to the hike we would do today - "Catbells". 

It's a series of two peaks that rise quite steeply and have a section of rock that needs to be negotiated.  It's quite challenging but more doable once beyond this part.  I was amazed how many people were hiking such a steep climb with energetic dogs!

Once we were at the top of the 2nd peak, we had 360 degree views of this beautiful landscape.

The descent over the other side was on rough stone steps down to the lake and then followed the lake under the pine trees in a loop.

My Aussie cycle friend Lucy is staying not too far away and came to join me for the hike today. So nice to catch up after more than a year 😊

The weather kept changing with winds, light showers, sun and fog and so jackets were on and off all day 😂

I'm at my tent now and the wind off the lake is pretty cold but it's not stopping a group of stand up paddle boarders who are swimming and paddling with their wetsuits on 😊

Caldbeck - Keswick 27kms 🚴‍♀️🇬🇧

Keswick to Castlerigg Stone Circle loop 12km 🚶‍♀️🇬🇧

A lovely sunny morning while packing up my tent and setting off for the day.

My route was quite hilly as I headed up towards the peaks I climbed yesterday. 

The mountains got closer and closer and I had to push my bike up 5 different hills that were too steep for me in the first 5kms 🙄.

Country lanes, green hills, blue skies, hikers and mountain bikers out enjoying the morning.

I then followed a valley with stunning mountain views of the Lakes District for the rest of the ride.  The route joined into a dedicated cycle and bike route undulating along the side of the mountains, joining onto a popular repurposed rail trail for the last 5kms into Keswick.

Keswick is a bustling outdoorsy hub with the majority of people in hiking, cycling or water sports gear wandering through town. Many outdoors stores too.
I continued on riding to my campsite alongside Derwentwater.  Cyclists and backpackers get to set up our little tents right beside the lake and I'm in my tent as the sun sets watching the geese and ducks on the lake 😊

After I'd set up, I had wanted to hire a kayak but I could see everyone out on the lake was struggling with the strong winds and so opted for a hike instead.  I wasn't expecting lush rainforest beside a rushing creek plus views back to Derwentwater as I climbed.  The stone circle is set in an amazing location surrounded 360 degrees by mountains and was popular today.

I had leftovers from last night, used the last of my pasta and added some fresh beans and cooked and ate with lakeside views 😊. The weather has turned and rain due overnight 😥. Was good while it lasted.

Caldbeck 🇬🇧 18.5kms 🚶‍♀️

 Today was a ‘rest day' as I felt a bit whacked from the hills and this is a pretty area.  I opted to go for a hike to the recommended “High Pike” Fell that's visible from the campground.

The route weaved through the village of Caldbeck on the edge of the Lake District, through farmers fields and little laneways before starting the proper ascent.  Bare green fields with curious sheep and lovely views which became even clearer as I climbed.  I reached the summit, had my picnic, chatted with a few other hikers but couldn't help noticing all the other summits that were now visible.  One just didn't seem enough 😂. 

Took some advice from other hikers and set off over to a hill fort location.  I was warned it would be boggy, which I innocently thought I could avoid 😂. I ended up walking with a young mum, Ashley, trying to get back into hiking after having a little one 18 months ago.  

I hadn't ever really experienced walking on boggy ground.  The ground in general for most of the hike was spongy and moist but the bogs go to another level.  I stepped and unexpectedly went halfway up my shin and struggled to get out!  I then knew more what to look for and avoided a repeat.  It was quite funny and would have been to watch.  The 360 degree views to layers and layers of mountains and rivers and little lakes, green and barren hills with lots of hikers and trail runners and mountain bikers dotted over the mountains enjoying a particularly magnificent weather day.

I arrived back to camp late afternoon after 18.5 kms hiking as other hikers started arriving and setting up tents.  Made a yummy dinner and now relaxing beside the creek, birds and lambs and with the sun still warm.  It is forecast to drop to 6 degrees overnight as it's so clear!

Fabulous day in nature! 

Once Brewed to Caldbeck 71kms 🇬🇧

Hadrian's Way (Wall) : Day 3 

This morning the wind had dropped and there was a forecast of a rain free day. The wind dropping meant the midfield came out in force! I opened my tent and stepped out and was attacked. Straight into eyes and face in particular 🙄 back in my tent and zipped up in shock 😂. So completely packed each pannier, threw them out one by one and sat for a minute to brace myself 😂. It was the quickest tent pack down on record and I ran everything over to the reception area which had a gravel base. I found everyone else doing the same 😂 packing their hiking or bike packing kits in safety. I am now covered in bites, but fortunately, so far, don't seem to be itchy!

Today's ride climbed up and down hills beside Hadrian's wall with lush meadows, lambs and forests. A local rode with me for about 5kms chatting which was lovely.  

I arrived into Carlisle with a plan to visit the old town, big church and castle. I ended up a bit flustered as the traffic was crazy, cycle lanes that just stopped and so doubling back for safety. I settled for just the castle and had some afternoon tea with castle views.  

I took advice from locals and haven't continued riding to the west coast but turned south and am headed for the Lakes District. The Hills were tough today and so I'll do some route planning and see if I think I can continue with my load.

I am staying at another farm campsite in a quaint pretty village beside a stream. A full campsite but they squeezed me in on the same plot as a hiker as we both have tiny tents. Lots of hikers doing the Cumbrian way staying here. I've had a hot shower, made a yummy dinner and now relaxing. I'll be a bit muscle sore from pushing my bike and riding the hills. Such a gorgeous area though ❤️

My updated travel map for the last few months.

https://tiffstraveltales.travelmap.net