Skjope🇲🇰 - Dortmund - Cologne 🇩🇪

An early start (4am) meant I got to see the sun rising and lighting the sky around the mountains of North Macedonia on my way to the airport.

A whirlwind trip between soccer matches in Cologne and the necessary stamps in my passport achieved to assist in keeping within the Schengen visa allowances.  

My flight landed in the small airport of Dortmund and I found my way to the bus stop that connects with the underground. I had 1.5hours before my train to Cologne and so went for a wander through the modern city. It was packed and a real festive vibe as Germany and Denmark playing at the stadium tonight. The Danish with red and white and Viking hats and traditional horns blowing and the Germans with flags and red, yellow and black hats and shirts and wigs were all excitedly cheering.

I had thought I would visit the Museum of football (I get a volunteers 50% discount), but there was a big line up outside.  

This afternoon has been spent washing clothes, grocery shopping, life admin, logistics and route planning for my next cycle adventure that is soon to begin 😊

I have loved having warm sunny weather this last week - some summer 

finally 😂

Skjope 🇲🇰. Matka Gorge 10kms🚶‍♀️

 This morning I was feeling the effects of missing sleep and so nodded back to sleep after waking early.

The hostel owners recommended visiting Matka Gorge and I could take a guided bus tour for $50-$60 or get there myself for much less.  The less straightforward option provides cost savings that have helped me be on this adventure for longer.  I set off for the local bus stop and waited for bus No. 60 for 45mins. 

I checked with another driver as there are no signs indicating which busses stop at the stop.  To my relief the bus arrived.  I went to pay the driver and he said that his ticket machine was broken and so couldn't sell me a ticket.  He then said not to worry and just get on.  The guy in the first row said he had the same thing happen, whereas many hopped on with day tickets.   So...  Free bus ride✅. 

The bus drops off at the last turn around point for busses as the canyon narrows.  Quite a few tourists on board and so we guessed where to go and walked up the canyon with steep rocky sides and crystal clear rushing water in the river. 

Such a beautiful nearly 2km walk to the dam wall and then the path zig zagged up to a path that has been carved into the rock with a guide rope.  Soon I came to the most beautiful area with platforms for boats and kayaks and some pretty restaurants built out over the water. 

I lined up with many other tourists to buy a ticket for the canyon boat trip including caves.  I got to the counter and found they take cash only (in hindsight I should have guessed) and was about 50c short.  Next minute a man behind me.handed me the missing cash and said in a broad Aussie accent that he would hate me to miss out 😊. He was with a group of 40 from Melbourne whose kids are Hellenic dancers and parents with them on tour 😊. So I paid $12.50 for the trip.  

The canyon tour is so scenic, water clean and clear and the sheer cliffs all around.  I realised that the canyon walk I had done some of actually continues high in the cliffs.

We arrived at caves and walked some steep stairs up to the entrance and down into the caverns 😊

When we arrived back at the dock I continued along the canyon cliff walk for a few kms before turning back.  I waded in the stream on the way back and the water was icy cold and I could only stay in the water a short time.

I arrived at the bus stop and there were some who had been waiting a while.  We waited an hour with no busses.  A taxi driver kept offering a deal saying the busses weren't coming.  We were all out of cash and so said we would wait.  After another half an hour a few of us who had been chatting decided to walk to the next village 5kms away.  So Issham from Morocco, Davide from Italy and I set off along the road.  The road was very busy with cars but no busses!  We met an American couple who joined our group walking to the village. 

We found out that the newly elected President (last weekend elections) was doing a parade through the city and so roads closed and businesses closed early so people could attend!  The bus arrived half an hour later and our little band said goodbye to each other and then discovered two of us staying in the same hostel 😂. Bus  ride free.  $12.50 for a fabulous day out✅

Chats with the new hostel ladies in my room and a Macedonian dinner and a pistachio gelati as I sat at the fountain in the square listening to a busker.  A quiet night as I have to leave the hostel at 4.15am to go to the airport (cheapest flights are often at unsociable hours). 

The Hostel Owners are a delightful Turkish couple who make it feel like a family home with hugs and smiles to welcome and farewell, and calling me their friend 😊. So warm to all the guests.

I've only scratched the surface of North Macedonia by visiting the capital and have many recommendations for other places to visit.  The Balkans are interesting, scenic,  with lovely welcoming people and affordable for Aussies. 

Skjope 🇲🇰. 14kms 🚶‍♀️

The show must go on 😂

Electrical storms across the Balkans means that there were a series of rolling delays to aircraft arriving into many European destinations.  My 11pm departure ended up departing Cologne around 4.30am as the sun was rising, arriving into Skjope just before 7am. I managed an hour or so sleep on the flight.  Was feeling weary but exiting the airport and seeing the mountains recharged the batteries 😂. My hostel owners collected me from the airport and I had a shower and went out to get a typical Macedonian brekky.  

A delicious spinach Borek with a salted drinking yoghurt which aids digestion of the slightly greasy food.  It hit the spot! 

I had booked a free walking tour and met my very enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide and group from around the world. 

Skjope is an interesting city with 22 centuries of occupation from a variety of nations and Government styles.  They achieved independence in 1991 and have been rebuilding their nation, identity and infrastructure.  A serious earthquake damaged a huge portion of the city in 1963 and left 200,000 homeless and so many buildings were rebuilt in the late 60’s and then a huge resurgence since the 1990’s.

They have a recent passion for incredibly large statues and monuments, replica buildings from other cities in Europe and the grand scale additions to bridges, fountains and buildings are impressive.  Alexander the Great statue is the tallest and most impressive from my viewpoint.

Our walking tour passed over bridges, to monuments, through the bazaar and finished at the base of the fortress. My guide has been doing it for 9 yrs and the leader of the stray dog pack has a relationship with him now and literally calls the other dogs to join the tour.  So we were escorted by the stray dog pack for 3hrs!

I wandered up the hill to the fortress that is free to enter and not maintained but ¾ of the wall is intact and can be walked 😊. Got caught in a storm that I could see coming and enjoyed getting pretty wet on a hot day. 

Then to the bazaar for a traditional white bean paprika dish with bread.  Then to the fruit and vege markets for some fresh tomatoes, cherries and bananas.

By now I was flagging and so back to the hostel for a lie down for an hour then an hour chat with one of my room mates a late 40’s Chinese Electrical engineer who had quit her job to travel for 100 days. 

Once the storm had finished I walked to the restaurant district and to a place recommended by the hostel for an incredible meal. 

North Macedonia, I'm impressed so far!